I usually don’t post information about Photoshop techniques simply because there is an entire universe of websites dedicated to Photoshop that are run by folks who are far more Photoshop savvy than I could ever hope to be. However, every so often I run across a technique that I find really interesting and so, on those occasions, a post about it seems reasonable. Such is the case with High Pass Filtration. Please don’t consider this to be the definitive ‘how to’ regarding this technique but, rather, a jumping off point to look into it in a more sophisticated manner if it seems of interest to you.
The reason I found High Pass filtration interesting is that while ‘surfing the net’ I have occasionally come across images that seem to have a somewhat ‘enhanced’ sense of reality that gives them a very three dimensional appearance. The effect seems somewhat similar to the HDR effect, but tuned down. When I have followed discussions about such images the photographer will often say, when asked, that the image in question was not processed with HDR software.
So, it whet my interest when I ran across a technique which, by description, seemed to be one way to generate this effect. It is done by using the
At any rate, here is a way to use this technique in order to see if it will achieve a desirable effect (plus I made my own little addition to what I read). Once the image you are considering using it on is complete, duplicate the image and flatten it, but don’t sharpen it yet. Now the image consists of only a background layer. Duplicate this background layer twice and click the icons to turn these duplicate layers off, making them invisible. Now click back on the background layer to make it active and go to the Photoshop filters and choose
Perhaps the effect is too much? That is why I added the second duplicate layer (which is not visible at this point) on top of the others at the start of the technique. Click on that layer to now make it active and click on the icon to make it visible. The image now appears as it did before starting. But turn down the opacity of this topmost layer to let the filtered look come through and see how you like it.
A few comments:
1) I have only played around with this technique a bit and found that there are some images that it truly enhances and others that it totally destroys.
2) If an image is found that would benefit from this technique, the entire process can obviously be performed within the original file by duplicating the entire image and placing the entire image on a new layer and working from there.
4) It really is difficult to duplicate this effect with curves....I tried.
3) With the image size being so small, and with the effect being toned down with the topmost layer blogs don't really lend themselves to really demonstrating the effect well…..so, if it sounds interesting, play around with it on your own images and see what you think. With that in mind I am posting one example. The only difference between these two images was the High Pass filtration step.



8 comments:
I have to say, I've not yet seen a photo processed with this sort of technique that I actually liked. Yours are no exception - I much prefer the pre shot, even though your post shot is rather more toned-down that most.
I agree it can, and often is, way overdone. That is why I put my own layer on the very top that is a copy of the original photo and use it, by varying its opacity, to tone down the effect.
I think the 'High Pass Filteration' process has its place. I like that you used in for this shot. It brought more clarity to the falls on the left and the color of the rocks running the length of the falls in the background. Well done.
I find that using an adjustment layer set to Soft Light or Overlay gives a similar effect. I think it tends to darken the shadows more than the high pass filter version. I usually use a Curves layer with no modifications (ie, leave it at a straight line) but I don't think it matters much.
You can get a slightly different effect using a B&W adjustment layer set to Overlay or Soft Light.
I like it because it's quick and easy to do, easy to adjust via opacity, and doesn't increase file sizes much.
Give it a shot, maybe you'll like it. It's very quick and easy, so nothing lost if you don't like it.
Thanks Beaker
I think it's hard to see the effect of high pass sharpening/local contrast adjustment on low res, web friendly images unless it's overdone, but it can be used very effectively in a more subtle manner, and can really add snap to prints.
I get similar results by running a low percentage/high radius USM (such as 15%, 60 radius) on a luminosity blend layer.
Of course the clarity feature in the newer LR and ACR is similar.
I like the edgy look it can give to some shots. I haven't tried it much for waterfalls though. Do you find it interrupts the naturally peaceful nature to them by introducing the added contrast?
To tell you the truth Mark, I only recently discovered this technique and haven't used it all that much yet. This was the first waterfall I tried it on and I like the effect here. Some images I really don't like it with though. I am going to have to experiment with it.
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